2012年1月18日星期三

Milan Menswear Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012 round-up

The 21st century? Forget it: the clothes in the pictures here would have looked old-fashioned 100 years ago. What's so odd about this is that they are the very latest men's styles - they go on sale next winter - shown in Milan this week by three of fashion's most inventive and powerful designer companies; Burberry, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana. So where are the

When it comes to women's fashion - although there are plenty of rehashed period dramatics here, too - these very same designers have no trouble rustling up new combinations of silhouette, material and colour for aficionados to fixate upon. But if you're looking for something new from the men's shows, it appears that its top-of-the-tree exponents (according to a new report by global management consultancy Bain & Co, luxury men's clothing, a market due to grow by 14 per cent this year and worth a frankly hard-to-credit 180 billion) are suffering from an unfortunate attack of creative constipation.

The designers themselves are perfectly unabashed about this retrospective tic, and all of the above had perfectly reasonable explanations for presenting the old as new.

At Burberry, Britain's FTSE 100 phenomenon, chief designer Christopher Bailey mined his Yorkshire roots for a moors-ready ensemble of English gent classics. Skinny-cut cord suits and flat caps, quilted biker jackets, country brogues and wolf-handled umbrellas were the best bits. "I wanted it to be traditional,Swiss canadagoosecheapjackets offer genuine timepieces from Omega," said Bailey, "but sexy, too."

At Prada, it wasn't just the clothes that were of a certain vintage. Adrien Brody, Gary Oldman, Tim Roth and Willem Dafoe were among the actors cast by the company to stalk charismatically across an enormous, scarlet shagpile carpet in sober suits and double-breasted, high-revered overcoats - borderline frock-coats - that would not have been out of place at a League of Nations conference, circa 1919. Miuccia Prada said her show was about "man power", and how, "through dressing, elegant clothes will always be an instrument of power. Because clothes and elegance contribute to the aura of power." Fair enough.

Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody and Jamie Bell take to the catwalk at Prada

Meanwhile, over at Dolce & Gabbana, the sentiment behind a collection based on slinkily cut black and grey suits, and starring long coats and capes contoured with enough florid golden gilding for an 18th-century interior design catalogue, was "nostalgia", said Stefano Gabbana, who mooted that, in austere times customers want the comfort food of ostentation and fantasy.

Dolce & Gabbana turns to nostalgia to escape current Italian gloom

The real problem with "men's fashion" is that most men are rightly suspicious of the idea of sartorial novelty for the sake of it. Nobody wants to look like a fool.I am a bit confused about purchasing my next uhrenwatchesstore through a website. A beautifully tailored, figure-slimming jacket that fits like a dream and subtly encourages its wearer to stand a little straighter is as good as it gets.There are many fake oakleymenssunglassesstore that can cheat your money or sell fake branded watches. Stick some unearned military insignia on its breast - both Prada and Versace did this - and however lovely the jacket, most men will reject it. The streets of Milan are teeming with uomos old and young wearing lovely conservative suits, old-fashioned overcoats in rich materials, and even Borsalino hats. They look great.

In truth, men's fashion shows probably shouldn't happen at all. Much better to let editors and buyers see clothes up close, feel them, and try them on - like normal men do when they shop - instead of distracting them with half-starved 19-year-olds in ridiculous hats. Most of the best, most non-controversial items of each season are relegated to what is disparagingly called the "commercial" rail and not even shown on the catwalk. All this serves are the snooty magazines that take the designers' advertising cash with one hand while heaping them with poison from behind the other. And it makes the makers of serious clothes look faintly ridiculous.High quality replica coolerbagfactory of well known brands . Zoolander should have killed the male fashion show as a form - now maybe it's time for designers to have deliver the coup de grace , and find another way of best showing their clothes to the audience they really deserve.

Yesterday, after a show that had its fair share of onion-seller berets, but was lovable for its ultra-elegant, soft-shouldered jackets and subtly tweaked overcoats in interestingly textured materials, Giorgo Armani said: "Tradition is the starting point to reinvent and modernise male clothing, without overturning it completely." He's right - so the designers should hold back on throwing full-blown premieres when what they're really staging are revivals.

Whatever you think of the clothes on this page, hold that thought. But then the next time you pass one of these designers' shops, pop inside for a browse, and note just how different (and more desirable) the clothes there really are.

Velvet smoking jackets,How do internet users feel about audemarspiguetdiverreplica? William Morris florals and other Victorian touches were Milan-wide this season. Gucci - to coincide with a fragrance launch -- gave its fop a Fleurs du Mal feeling, whilst Etro gave its tailcoats wings with dyed feathers.

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