NEW YORK - Phillip Lim made his point when the DJ at his Monday afternoon show played the James Brown standard "It's a Man's World." Through the technical difficulties of a hyperactive fog machine, models in panel cape jackets and silver PVC collars neatly summed up Lim's idea of the strong woman in masculine tailoring.
With unapologetic and nuanced nods to superheroes, Lim's ensembles balanced menswear silhouettes with feminine touches such as peplum blouses.
That kind of duality - think the lyric "It's a man's world, but it would be nothing, nothing without a woman or a girl" - could have been the mantra for the Fall/Winter 2012 collections being presented at New York Fashion Week.
One look that's been especially visible is military style. Designers have been eschewing flouncy in favor of fierce (apologies, Christian Siriano). Menswear influences have been abundant, and the palettes of some of fashion's most girly designers have faded to gray and black.
"I think we tend to veer toward darker colors as a rule for Fall/Winter," says Elle magazine creative director Joe Zee. "But recently there's been so much color, color blocking, color this, color that. I think people just want to go back to basics."
And there was plenty of basic black and gray at Donna Karan, Christian Siriano, Jill Stuart,Buy guccihandbags from thousands of International exporters. and even the always posh Carolina Herrera, who went to darker shades and neutrals for her runway shows.
"Sometimes I think blacks and neutrals are a palette freshener," Zee says. "You have to clean it up and start over in a way. I think all the black I've seen is really beautiful. I saw gorgeous things today at Theyskens' Theory. At the end of the day, we all love color, we all write about color, but look around. What's everybody wearing here?"
Trends often oddly surface across a wide range of designers during New York Fashion Week. It sometimes appears to be more than a coincidence, as if designers secretly rendezvous behind tall bolts of fabric and agree on the trends for the season. Early in the week, perhaps the most buzzed about trend surfaced in the form of military-inspired jackets, trousers, and dresses.
These varied widely based on the designer's particular style, but there were the epaulets, the brass buttons, and the sharply tailored lines giving the illusion that a small platoon had landed on the catwalks of Lincoln Center.
Even Jason Wu, king of the cocktail dress and preferred designer of first lady Michelle Obama, was showing Chinese military chic in olive green and black at his Friday show. Prabal Gurung's models strutted in fetishistic, military inspired caps,SocialPicks is tracking the performance of hermeshandbags . while the normally preppy Tommy Hilfiger brought out military-inspired trench coats in his women's collection and trotted out models resembling cadets for his men's presentation. In the program for the show, Hilfiger called the look "a personalized take on military precision."
"I don't know if there's a particularly strong reason why we're seeing military," says Joanna Coles, editor of Marie Claire. "But it's sharp, it's tailored, and it's something that a lot of women look good in."
Alexander Wang's show brought out models in militaristic leather jackets, including Gisele Bundchen,Wholesale ralphlaurenhoody for high quality wholesale New ERA Hats products. apparently recovered from the Super Bowl loss her husband,I am a bit confused about purchasing my next authenticmonclerjackets through a website. Patriots' quarterback Tom Brady, suffered. Victoria Beckham, who focused her frocks on fit, also showed splashes of olive with dots of military buttons.
Fashion writers love to emphasize the trends, but for every black pencil skirt and brass button, there were dozens of designers who presented models in non-militaristic, blazing colors. Betsey Johnson, who never met a shade of pink that she didn't like, paid tribute to London's Carnaby Street circa 1967 with go-go ready miniskirts and tights.
Diane von Furstenberg also embraced vibrant colors and graphic prints with ruby pink dresses, rosy red kimonos,monclerouterwear is proudly powered by WordPress and WPMU Theme pack. and a frosted lime paisley jacquard coat. Carlos Miele began his show, a tribute to Brazilian cowboys, by showing black wool ponchos before moving quickly to tangerine and gold. Chris Benz, who is rapidly maturing into a top-drawer designer, spiked his collection with two of the season's biggest trends: bold prints and bolero jackets.
Marc Jacobs ignored it all. He presented an eerie slice of fantasy. Under mammoth fur hats, models were bundled in layers of Shetland stoles, tweed coats, rhinestone sunglasses, and Pilgrim shoes adorned with glittering buckles. Behind it was a set that looked like it was excavated from Tim Burton's brain.
Amid Fashion Week's dark and masculine harshness, the delicious white fantasy land from Jacobs was a welcome and stunning reprieve.
With unapologetic and nuanced nods to superheroes, Lim's ensembles balanced menswear silhouettes with feminine touches such as peplum blouses.
That kind of duality - think the lyric "It's a man's world, but it would be nothing, nothing without a woman or a girl" - could have been the mantra for the Fall/Winter 2012 collections being presented at New York Fashion Week.
One look that's been especially visible is military style. Designers have been eschewing flouncy in favor of fierce (apologies, Christian Siriano). Menswear influences have been abundant, and the palettes of some of fashion's most girly designers have faded to gray and black.
"I think we tend to veer toward darker colors as a rule for Fall/Winter," says Elle magazine creative director Joe Zee. "But recently there's been so much color, color blocking, color this, color that. I think people just want to go back to basics."
And there was plenty of basic black and gray at Donna Karan, Christian Siriano, Jill Stuart,Buy guccihandbags from thousands of International exporters. and even the always posh Carolina Herrera, who went to darker shades and neutrals for her runway shows.
"Sometimes I think blacks and neutrals are a palette freshener," Zee says. "You have to clean it up and start over in a way. I think all the black I've seen is really beautiful. I saw gorgeous things today at Theyskens' Theory. At the end of the day, we all love color, we all write about color, but look around. What's everybody wearing here?"
Trends often oddly surface across a wide range of designers during New York Fashion Week. It sometimes appears to be more than a coincidence, as if designers secretly rendezvous behind tall bolts of fabric and agree on the trends for the season. Early in the week, perhaps the most buzzed about trend surfaced in the form of military-inspired jackets, trousers, and dresses.
These varied widely based on the designer's particular style, but there were the epaulets, the brass buttons, and the sharply tailored lines giving the illusion that a small platoon had landed on the catwalks of Lincoln Center.
Even Jason Wu, king of the cocktail dress and preferred designer of first lady Michelle Obama, was showing Chinese military chic in olive green and black at his Friday show. Prabal Gurung's models strutted in fetishistic, military inspired caps,SocialPicks is tracking the performance of hermeshandbags . while the normally preppy Tommy Hilfiger brought out military-inspired trench coats in his women's collection and trotted out models resembling cadets for his men's presentation. In the program for the show, Hilfiger called the look "a personalized take on military precision."
"I don't know if there's a particularly strong reason why we're seeing military," says Joanna Coles, editor of Marie Claire. "But it's sharp, it's tailored, and it's something that a lot of women look good in."
Alexander Wang's show brought out models in militaristic leather jackets, including Gisele Bundchen,Wholesale ralphlaurenhoody for high quality wholesale New ERA Hats products. apparently recovered from the Super Bowl loss her husband,I am a bit confused about purchasing my next authenticmonclerjackets through a website. Patriots' quarterback Tom Brady, suffered. Victoria Beckham, who focused her frocks on fit, also showed splashes of olive with dots of military buttons.
Fashion writers love to emphasize the trends, but for every black pencil skirt and brass button, there were dozens of designers who presented models in non-militaristic, blazing colors. Betsey Johnson, who never met a shade of pink that she didn't like, paid tribute to London's Carnaby Street circa 1967 with go-go ready miniskirts and tights.
Diane von Furstenberg also embraced vibrant colors and graphic prints with ruby pink dresses, rosy red kimonos,monclerouterwear is proudly powered by WordPress and WPMU Theme pack. and a frosted lime paisley jacquard coat. Carlos Miele began his show, a tribute to Brazilian cowboys, by showing black wool ponchos before moving quickly to tangerine and gold. Chris Benz, who is rapidly maturing into a top-drawer designer, spiked his collection with two of the season's biggest trends: bold prints and bolero jackets.
Marc Jacobs ignored it all. He presented an eerie slice of fantasy. Under mammoth fur hats, models were bundled in layers of Shetland stoles, tweed coats, rhinestone sunglasses, and Pilgrim shoes adorned with glittering buckles. Behind it was a set that looked like it was excavated from Tim Burton's brain.
Amid Fashion Week's dark and masculine harshness, the delicious white fantasy land from Jacobs was a welcome and stunning reprieve.
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